Just looking at all of the available components for LED lighting makes a person dizzy. There are power supplies, mounting blocks, lead cords, jumpers, controllers, linear lights, tape lighting, pucks, and more. It's overwhelming!
Luckily, with a little understanding of the various components and how they work together, you can easily breakdown lighting and build a configuration that suits your needs. Click any of the components below to get a better understanding of how it fits into a Lighting configuration.
- Power Supply
- Mounting Block
- Lead Cords, Starter Wires, Linking Wires & Jumpers
- Controllers
- LED Light Units
Basic Lighting Configuration Examples:
Putting it all together:
How to Order LED Lighting
Close X1. Power Supply
also called LED Drivers and LED Transformers
Power Supplies are low voltage DC, or Direct Current, transformers that take the 120V AC from your wall outlets and step it down to a manageable 12V or other voltage and regulates it so it is safer for your lighting needs. The transformer keeps you from being electrocuted. A power zap from a 12V DC power supply will shock you but most likely won’t kill you. Power Supply is another name for LED Transformer or LED Driver.
LED DC Power Supplies only supply electricity 20 feet in any direction away from themselves.
The power supply devices above are all used in different ways with LED lighting:
- A. Wall Mount Power Supply
- A Wall Mount power Supply is a smaller power supply that plugs directly into a wall outlet and has limited uses. As the power is supplied 20' in any direction, this power supply accommodates only a small area of space.
- B. Power Block Power Supply
- The Power Block Power Supply is a more versatile power supply than the Wall Mount power supply in that the power block itself has a 6' power cord extending the range for which power is supplied. The power block itself can be hidden as well. These power supplies are available in 6W to 60W sizes. Corded controllers can be connected to these power supply units for more versatility in controlling your lighting setup.
- C. Hardwire Box Power Supply
- When using a wall dimmer control, you use a Hardwire Box Power Supply that is directly wired to the switch. The Hardwire Box is connected to a mounting block via direct wiring or an adapter wire depending on your application. The 120V AC to 12V DC power transformation takes place in the Hardwire Box. Hardwire Box Power Supplies are examples of "Dimmable Power Supplies". Because the wall switch is directly connected to the AC power and you may have a dimmer type switch, the power supply itself is dimmable. The important thing to remember is when you have a wall dimmer switch, you need a dimmable power supply.
- D. Tresco Tri-Mitter Power Supply
- The Tresco Tri-Mitter Power Supply provided the ability for your lighting to be controlled using wireless remote controllers. This power supply has a connected received allowing controls to transmit on/off or dimming instructions up to 30 meters away.
Jump to the Power Supply products
Close X2. Mounting Blocks
A LED Mounting Block, also called a Terminal Block, expands the number of available connection ports for your power supply. Think of it like a small electrical power strip plugged into your power supply. It provides an expanded number of connections for use.
The Mounting Block allows you to utilize the full capacity of your power supply by providing space for extra devices to connect to the power supply. You may purchase Mounting Blocks as separate units and they are also found already connected to power supplies.
LED Lighting products lead cords and extension cords plug into the mounting block ports.
Jump to Mounting Blocks
Close X3. Lead Cords, Starter Wires, Linking Wires & Jumpers
There are many different types of LED Lead Cords, Jumpers, and Linking Wires and each serves a particular purpose such as:
- A. Lead Cord / Starter Cord (Unattached)
- A Lead cord, also known as a Starter cord, connects the LED Lighting unit to the power supply. Regardless of the number of links and jumpers and connections between the lighting units, there needs to be that initial link to the power supply that's called the Lead cord / Starter Cord. In illustration A, the Lead cord is a separate connector cord. You may purchase different lengths of Lead cords for different uses. The Lead cord has a connector on one end to connect to the light unit and on the opposite end is a power port connection. The power port connection shown plugs into a port on a Mounting Block.
- B. Lead Cord / Starter Cord (Attached)
- A Lead cord, also known as a Starter cord, connects the LED Lighting unit to the power supply. Regardless of the number of links and jumpers and connections between the lighting units, there needs to be that initial link to the power supply that's called the Lead cord / Starter Cord. Illustration B shows a LED puck lighting unit that has a permanent Lead cord attached to it. Most puck lights come with a Lead cord already attached.
- C. Lead Cord / Starter Cord (Extended)
- As with the Lead cord / Starter cords above, this cord is used as the initial connection of the lighting unit to the power supply. The extended cord is nothing more than a longer Lead cord giving you the option to put your lighting unit farther away from your power source.
- D. Jumper
- A Jumper is a connecting cord that allows you to link two LED lighting units together. In this way, you can connect one of the LED lighting units to the power and then jumper or link multiple units from the same power connection. The power extends through one lighting unit to the next.
- E. Linking Wires (Male and Female)
- Male (right side - port adapter connection) and Female (left side - port receiver connection) linking wires allow you to Jumper two lighting units together or the male end of the link can be used as a Lead cord to connect a lighting unit to power as long as the connection matches the mounting block port connection.
- F. Connector Cord
- Illustration F is an example of a connector cord. The connector cord is similar to a Lead cord but the connection end that connects to the lighting unit may have a specialized receiver connection. In the illustration, the connection is a "T" connection allowing two lighting units to be connected to one cord. As they are a T-configuration, the lighting units connect at 90-degree angles on each side of the cord.
Jump to Lead Cords, Starter Wires, Linking Wires & Jumpers products
Close X4. Controllers
The controller is one of the most important components for your lighting project as you select a controller to turn your lights on and off and there are many different options for that control from motion sensors to dimmers to remote control devices.
In our understanding of electricity, we know that our DC power runs in a circuit in one direction. As the image below illustrates, our controller completes the circuit and the light illuminates. When the switch is off, the circuit is not completed and our light is off.
The most basic setup is to control your lighting with a wall switch. The wall switch can be connected directly to your lighting power supply or you can use a standard household switch-controlled outlet.
But, when you want to really take control of your lighting project, there are many different options to choose from. Some of them include the following:
- A. Proximity Controller
- A Proximity Controller allows you to swipe your hand in front of the sensor to power the lights on/off. Can be mounted onto the side or underneath a cabinet or, a hole can be drilled and it can be embedded into the edge or face of the cabinet.
- B. Door Sensor Controller
- A Door Sensor Controller turns the lights on inside the cabinet when the door is opened and off when the door is closed.
- C. Motion Controller
- A Motion Controller turns the lights on when human motion is detected near the sensor. The sensor picks up motion up to 5' away. Can be mounted onto the side or underneath a cabinet or, a hole can be drilled and it can be embedded into the edge or face of the cabinet.
- D. Dimmer Controller
- A Dimmer Controller has a touch on/off sensor and then dimming control by holding your finger against the sensor from 0-100%. Can be mounted onto the side or underneath a cabinet or, a hole can be drilled and it can be embedded into the edge or face of the cabinet.
- E. Manual Rotary Dimmer
- The Manual Rotary Dimmer Controller mounts near or on your cabinets and provides a simple mechanical control that you simply turn the knob to dim the lights.
- F. FreeDim Wall Dimmer
- The FreeDim Wall Dimmer controller is a wireless wall switch that connects via a wireless receiver to your lighting setup. The switch provides on/off capabilities and dimming.
- G. FreeDim Micro Dimmer
- The FreeDim Micro Dimmer controller is a wireless control that can be mounted permanently to a cabinet or surface and it can also be setup as a magnet for the side of your refrigerator. It provides press on/off and dimming capabilities remotely. The FreeDim receiver connects to your lighting setup to receive the signal from the Micro control.
- H. FreeDim Remote Control Dimmer
- A FreeDim Remote Control Dimmer lighting controller controls your different lighting zones via a handheld wireless remote control similar to a TV remote control. Current remote control dimmers control 3 zones to 6 zones.
- I. KeyChain Remote Control Dimmer
- A KeyChain Remote Control Dimmer Controller puts the power of a wireless remote control dimmer controller into the palm of your hand. Control up to 3 lights from up to 30' away. Attach it to a keychain, a belt loop, or hang it from a hook. Works in conjunction with multiple independent controllers in a room.
- J. Simple Round Switch
- The Simple Round Switch Controller is a basic on/off toggle switch. It can be embedded into the surface of a cabinet.
Jump to the Controllers products
Close X5. LED Light Units
LED Lighting comes in several different forms that each have their own set of advantages and disadvantages. Some of the lighting tends to be more appropriate for certain situations as well such as puck lighting in open or glass front cabinets.
LED Lighting can also be selected to provide different light qualities depending on your wants and needs. Each can be selected based on wants but, the following characteristics tend to work better in settings as noted:
- Warm Light – casts a warm yellow-ish glow similar to that of an incandescent light bulb. You might select this light color when your countertops and cabinets are more earthy, brown, reds, orange, and/or yellow in color tone.
- Natural Light – casts a Neutral light that is in the spectrum between warm and cool light.
- Cool Light – casts a cool blue-ish light. Cool lighting works best with white, black, gray, blue, green, and general cool colored countertops and cabinets where warm lighting.
- Daylight – casts a brighter, whiter light like sunlight.
Read the
Tresco Guide to LED Lighting Temperature for more information about color temperature.
- A. Puck Lights and Square LED Units
- Puck Lights provide a cone shaped pool of light under cabinets or inside cabinets and closets. They are often used in glass front cabinets to provide a warm glow or to highlight something stored in the cabinet. Puck lights, for the most part, come with a lead cord already attached. Most are not linkable with the exception of the Tresco Pockit puck lights which can be purchased linkable.
Square LED lights can be used like puck lights when you want that squared off design element. Some of them come with a center cluster of lights to provide that cone shaped pool of light and others come with the LED lights laid out in a grid pattern. You may also get battery-operated square puck lights for use in situations where wiring isn't readily available.
- B. Linear Stick LED Lighting
- Linear Stick LED light is set length lights that are enclosed in a clear case or sheath. These sticks are ready to use and are protected by their clear covers. They are usually installed by snapping them into clips that attached to your cabinets or furniture.
- C. Cut-to-Size Flexible Tape Lighting
- Cut-to-size LED lighting, also called flexible tape LED lighting, is LED lighting that comes in one long continuous roll and can be cut to almost exact measurements to fit your needs. The pieces connect together with link and starter cords and are configured to your custom requirements. Combine the tape lighting with cut-to-size aluminum channels and you have a very flexible, and stylish, custom lighting option. These channels also provide options for light diffusion making for a softer, more even glow.
- Not Shown: Battery-Operated LED Lighting
- Not shown but also available are several battery-operated LED lighting options. Each provides lighting for areas of your location that have no electrical access such as hall closets, linen closets, cabinets, and other enclosed spaces. There are even options for the lighting to turn on via motion detection.
Jump to the LED Lighting Units products
Close XBasic Lighting Configurations - Puck Lighting
- Fig A. - Puck Light Configuration with Controller AFTER Mounting Block
- Using a LED Puck lighting unit with the Controller mounted AFTER the mounting block but before the puck light means the controller will only control this one light. Other controllers can be mounted to control other lighting units.
- Fig B. - Puck Light Configuration with Controller BEFORE Mounting Block
- Using a LED Puck lighting unit with the Controller mounted BEFORE the mounting block means that the one Controller controls every lighting unit connected to the mounting block. So, turning off the lights with the controller means all lights connected turn off at the same time.
Jump to the LED Lighting Units products
Close XHow to Order LED Lighting
Buying LED Lighting for a project can be confusing when you don't understand all of the pieces that go into making a lighting design work. But, with a little understanding of the various pieces and parts and how they all fit together, you should be able to put together a lighting design that works for your needs.
The following steps are just a high level overview to get you started in designing and buying LED lighting for your project:
Measure and make a sketch of the room where you are adding lighting. If your project is kitchen lighting, measure all of your cabinet widths and heights as well as your appliances and mark them on your sketch. Be sure to note where available electrical outlets exist in the room and what types of outlets they are...120V/240V. See Basic Understanding of Home Electricity for an understanding of how the electric works in your home.
Your sketch can be as basic as a hard drawn sketch or as complex as a professional computer-aided design drawing.
Look at the room and decide where you need to put more lighting or where you want to add accent lighting and make notes in pencil on your sketch.
Decide what kind of lighting you want to add... puck lighting, linear stick lighting, or cut-to-size flexible tape lighting. Also, decide whether you need your lighting to be warm or cool lighting. See the LED Light Units section above for an understanding of these different components. Read the Tresco Guide to LED Lighting Temperature for more information about color temperature.
At this point, you'll want to start planning where you will put the lighting units and how to get power to them based on where your outlets are located in the room. Keep in mind that different lights have different power requirements. Your planning should take into account calculations of what size power supplies you will need for different areas of your design. See How Many Lights Can I Install? for a better understanding of the simple calculations needed to make your plan work.
Also, keep in mind how you want to control your lighting design. If using a wall switch with a dimmer control, you'll need a dimmable power supply. Otherwise, for controllers plugged directly into power supplies/mounting blocks, you can use regular power supplies.
As an alternative option, you may skip this step by sending a copy of your sketch to the experts in the Tresco by Rev-A-Shelf Free Lighting Layout Assistance program (the link opens in a separate tab). Tresco's team looks at your sketch and recommends lighting products, power supplies, and wiring for your needs. They'll send back to you a recommended parts list and modified version of your sketch showing the placement of the different lighting units and power supplies. See How Does the Tresco Lighting Layout Assistance Program Work? for more information.
- Send Tresco your kitchen design or sketch...
- Get back an annotated drawing and recommended lighting parts list...
- Order your lighting products from the Parts List.
Select the actual LED Lighting products you want to purchase and place your order at WoodworkerExpress.com. While ordering your lighting products, consider the True Position Lighting Installation Jigs as a way to make your final installation look professional and clean.
When your order arrives, check you received all items and everything is ready to be installed. Test the lighting products together to make sure everything is in good working order. Return/exchange any problematic components.
Check the electrical loads with your components plugged in to make sure you calculated everything correctly.
With your plan in hand, check the placement and positioning of all components for your lighting project to make sure everything fits well in your space.
Begin installing your components.
After everything is installed and working, step back and admire your work and newly lighted space.
Jump to the LED Lighting Units products
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